Cabinet insulation is not an extremely difficult do it yourself project. With a few tools, a little skill and a reliable system, you could tackle most standard insulations.

Regardless of where you get your house plans, from a plan book or through an architect that you are working with, these plans should have the kitchen layout. Once the framing is done and the exact measurements are confirmed you can order the cabinets. Your cabinets will arrive with a set of drawings giving you the precise layout for each cabinet. Take an inventory and label each cabinet when you remove them from the boxes.

Most cabinets come in standard sizes, base units being 34 ½ inches tall with wall units available in heights of 42, 30, 24, 18, 15, and 12 inches. Widths range from 9-48 inches in 3 inch increments. Filler strips are used to make up space in horizontal measurements. If you have any special needs or desires make sure to discuss them with your cabinet maker as there are many alternatives and options available in both custom production and semi-custom production cabinets.

Setting Cabinets

The first thing to do is determine the highest point on the floor in the area where cabinets will be placed. You can do this with an 8’ level or a 4’ level resting on a long straight 2x4. From the high point you then measure up the wall 34 ½” or the height of your base cabinets. Then make a level line at this height along the wall or walls where cabinets will be installed.

You should then measure up from the floor at your starting point to 54” and level this line along the walls the same way. This will serve as the bottom mark for the upper cabinets and leave 18” for the standard distance between upper and lower cabinets.

You can use a stud-finder or a hammer and nail to locate studs. Make sure you are driving the nail holes in an area that will be completely concealed by the cabinets. Go around the room and locate all the studs and mark the center of each one. Then take the level and mark a vertical line behind each cabinet, upper and lower, to use for measuring so you can predrill and start your screws in your cabinets prior to installing them.

The layout of each kitchen will determine where to start. Make sure to look at the drawing and allow for spacers where noted. Corners provide a fixed starting point as do kitchen sinks centered below a window. You can place all the cabinets in a row as they would appear in place. Then take some measuerments and see if everything is going to fit. Some of the filler strips may need to be ripped down with a table saw to make everything come out perfect.

I find it easier to set wall cabinets first because the lower cabinets get in the way. Unless you have 3 people it is probably easier to attach a 1x4 right below the 54” horizontal line you made earlier. Don’t overdo the fasteners as you will need to fill the holes in the drywall later. Put them about ½” from the top of the 1x4 so they will hardly be noticeable. Use this board to support the cabinets as you hold them in place.

It helps to remove doors, shelves and drawers to reduce weight and increase maneuverability.

You should attach the cabinets to one another by driving screws through the adjacent face frames of the cabinets, using the hinge side where possible and drilling small clearance holes slightly larger than the screwhead to countersink the screws. Make sure to use the appropriate length screw for each application. You can predrill the screw hole with a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw itself as the hardwood is tough to get a screw through.

You may need to use shims both on the walls behind the cabinets as well as on the floor if they aren’t perfectly level. If using shims on base cabinets make sure to support spaces under joints where units come together. Base units that form a corner need to be level at tops and fronts so that the countertops will fit properly. Shim behind cabinets when necessary using a utility knife to score the shims and break off the portion that is left exposed.

It is important to accurately measure for all pipes and receptacle outlets so your cutouts will match up well. Mark your holes on the bottom and outside back of cabinets, then drill pilot holes and use a hole saw to cut out openings cutting from the inside for a better looking cut.

Make sure your cabinets are certified by the Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association so they will handle humidity, temperature extremes and discoloration without damage. A list of tools that you will need follows: pencil, chalk line, tape measure, matching wood filler, shims, finish nailer, level, hammer, screws, nail, drill, proper bits, hole saw and miter saw.