When choosing tile make sure you check the wear _ that matches the traffic in the area in question. Tile comes in various sizes so you should take this into account also. Generally large tile looks better in large areas, small for smaller areas. You can lay out enough tile to get a good idea of how the pattern will appear before you start.

When choosing a color there are a few things to keep in mind. Light colors make a room seem bigger while dark colors make it seem smaller. If the floor is a similar color to the walls it will not stand out as much as it would if it were a contrasting color. I usually try to stay neutral on the tile color because it is simple to change the wall color, not so to replace the tile.

Make sure your whole job is done with tile from the same dye lot as printed on the carton. All whites may not be the same with different manufacturers.

You can use grout that matches the tile or you can use contrasting colors for grout. Matching grout makes the tile floor uniform as with contrasting grout colors make the individual tiles stand out and emphasizes patterns. Light colored tile makes a room seem cool, where as dark makes it seem warm. When the tile colors contrast with the wall the floor stands out. Similar colors make the floor seem to disappear.

The texture and shape of tile are just as important as color when determining the overall effect. For a more natural look a matte-finish glazed tile is best. Glossy tile seems colder, brighter and cleaner. Glossy tiles are better in kitchens and bath walls because they are more easily cleaned and not so good on floors because they become slippery when wet. Glossy tiles cause glare and hide the colors while matte finishes reduce glare and allow the tile’s color to come through.

You can get tile that is polished smooth as in granite which creates a more formal look. Where as a tambled marble with worn and rounded edges gives a more informal appearance. If you are wanting a rustic look you can choose a wide variety of handmade tiles such as terra-cotta Mexican Saltillo.

Tiles can be used to create patterns, make borders, mosaics and chair rails. Decorative tile are produced in smaller batches than mass produced field tile used mostly on floors. You can find many varieties of field tile in home centers and carpet stores along with limited amounts of decorative tile. Specialty stores are a better source for the latter, along with the internet. A good way to see what the finished look will be like is to build a small concept board with your tile selection and pattern finished and grouted. Decorative tile can be used to create murals.

If you should decide to lay your own tile and have no previous experience I would suggest attending a tile-setting workshop at a home center before you begin. For larger areas I would suggest renting a wet saw for cutting the tile. Also some knee pads, rubber gloves and safety glasses. You will need a grout floot to spread the grout and a notched trowel to apply the mortor.

I’ve tiled many small bathrooms and laundry rooms without renting a wet saw. The home centers will cut tile for a small fee (25 cents per cut) if you have purchased the tile from them. I’ve done many small rooms this way. I lay all the tile that will be full pieces first then measure mark and number each piece that needs cutting. Many times you can get 2 or more pieces out of one tile. 30 cuts or so will do most small rooms, so for $8 you can get the cutting done. You may need a hand drill with a carbide hole saw bit if you have water pipes (say for a toilet) to tile around.

You wont have to worry about your existing sub floor if your building your own house as the ¾” plywood will be perfect. You will need to install cement backer board prior to installing the tile. Run the backer board perpendicular to the plywood and stagger the backer board panels to avoid four corner joints. These 3’x5’ panels can be scored with a utility knife and snapped in pieces. They make carbide scoring knifes which last longer. You will need to mortor under the tile board before you screw it to the floor.

Setting the Tile

1. Mix the mortar according to the directions (usually with water)
2. Wipe the backer board free from dust and dirt
3. Using your notch trowel apply the mortar to the backer board in a layer 3/8” to 1/2'” thick
4. Hold the trowel at an angle and draw straight lines across the area you intend to tile. Don’t do a bigger area than you can reach without getting into the mortar
5. Make sure you have a straight line marked off on two walls that intersect and are square. Then mortar this area and lay the first tile and the intersection. Gently twist the tile back and forth to embed it into the mortar and move it into its final position. You may have to run your finger down the edge if too much mortar gets squeezed up in between. There needs to be plenty of room for the grout to fill in later.

If you use spacers, its better to place them on end so they are easily removed before grouting.

When grouting, you can use a float on joints smaller than 3/8”. Anything larger, a grout bag is recommended. Spread the grout in sweeping arcs with a rubber float holding it at an angle and pressing the grout into the joints. Then remove the excess grout by holding the float at a steep angle and sweeping it diagonally across the tiles to avoid dipping into the joints.

Once the grout is dry to touch you can go over the tile with wet sponges to clean the grout film off.