Building Your Own Home

Be your own contractor.

Euducation & Patience

In order to be successful when building a home and attempting to be your own contractor, you must first educate yourself in all aspects of the business. Having read about the plan, 6 x = $1.5 Million, you could be excited and anxious to get started. However, I must suggest that you take a moment to begin cultivating one of the traits that will serve you immensly throughout the entire adventure of building a home - patience! Believe me, you are going to need some heavy doses of patience! A thorough knowledge of how the process works will eliminate a tremendous amount of stress and frustration.

I would classify myself as a "hands on" builder. By that I mean I not only contract and supervise all of the aspects of the construction process, but also perform labor in various areas where other builders might hire subcontractors. Having started out painting in my hometown after college when a desk job didn't appeal to me, & then moving to Houston Tx in the 70's and framing for several years, I brought a lot of practical skills & "know how" to my contracting business. It allowed me to spend more time in the field vs. the office. I also enjoy the physical aspect and like to work outside. However, January & February in Missouri has given me second thoughts!

I may have sacrificed some economic gains by keeping my company so small, but I never envisioned running a large enterprise. I think its very important to enjoy your work. Over the last 10 years I have built an average of 3 1/2 homes per year, ranging in price from 1 to 4 hundred thousand dollars. Approximately 1/3 of these have been custom homes for individuals, and the rest "spec" homes for sale on the market as well as 2 personal residences.

I intend to include various references & sources that you can link to, books you can read, "how to" articles, as well as my own suggestions and experiences resulting from "having done it myself".

My method for instructing you on how to build a home is the same one that I've used and refined over the years. Hopefully you can gain from my experience and avoid some of my mistakes. Remember - no one's perfect & problems do arise. However, there always seems to be a solution. With ample preparation major problems can be avoided.

33 Step Process

The entire process I have broken down into 33 logically ordered steps as follows:

Education & Research
Financing
Search for land & Building Site
Floor Plan
Estimates
Permits - Handouts
Insurance (Workman's Compensation)
Excavator - Site Work
Footing - Pouring Concrete
Gravel Footing
Short Walls - Concrete & Water Proofing
Framing
Shingles - Roofing
Siding - Soffit
H.V.A.C. R.I.
Plumbing R.I.
Electric R.I.
Inspections R. inn.
Insulation
Drywall
Painting - Wall Paper
Trim Carpentry
Cabinets & Countertops
Mirrors - T.B. & T. Rod
Tile - Wood Floors
Appliances
Plumbing Fix
H.V.A.C. Furnace A/C set
Electrical Fixture Set
Carpet
Concrete Pad - Drive Paving
Yard Work - Landscaping
Guttering

Next we shall discuss each of these steps individually with my guidance suggestions, advice, & list of resources that will each make your project more successful.

1. Education & Research

I recommend spending at least 6 months to a year educating, researching and planning before you actually start building. 2 or 3 hours a week for a year will give you 100-150 hours education that will pay back big dividends. Multiply what an hour is worth at your day job by the time you spend and chaulk it up as investing in your future. Afterall, this will pay off over the course of several houses. I also recommend spending some time in continuing education & experience. I've referenced several books that have been published that contain a wealth of information & are available at most public libraries. A word of advice: Don't panic from info. overload!! Most books on this subject try to cover every concievable angle in order to meet the bewildering range of wants, needs & desires of their intended audience.

As an example, one book has a list of 37 questions to ask yourself before choosing a lot to buld on. After reviewing the questions, I found it could be broken down into 4 categories:
Common Sense (9 questions)
May Not Apply (12 questions)
Very Easy to Answer - Usually a phone call (11 questions)
Need Some Professional Advice (5 questions)

Here is an example of a question from each heading:

1. Common Sense: How much privacy does the lot have?

2. May Not Apply: If the setbacks are not sufficient to build the home you want, how easy is it to get a variance?
My advice: Forget about it! This is supposed to be fun, remember? Fighting City Hall is not my idea of fun!

3. Very Easy to Answer: Is the lot zoned for single family residence?
My advice: Call planning and zoning (1 simple phone call!)

4. Get Advice from a Professional: If sewer service isn't provided will the lot pass a perk test & allow a septic system?
My advice: In my area, a soil test is required before a building permit can be issued for a home requiring a septic system. Again Planning and Zoning Department usually has a list of soil scientists that you may contact.

You don't have to know everything there is to know about building a house! It is much more important to realize that you are putting together a team to help you accomplish your goal.

I came across a Henry Ford quote once where he had answered a question concerning the fact that he didn't have a high school education. The question wanted to know how he thought he knew enough about building cars to run a manufacturing company. His response was that he didn't need to know anything about building cars, but rather he needed to surround himself with people who did.

So- learn what you can, build up a general level of knowledge; then focus on building a team of professionals.

I've never personally set down & read all the building codes that apply in my area. I just make sure all of my subcontractors have a thorough knowledge of them. Then we get an understanding between us that if anything doesn't pass codes - they are responsible for correcting the problem.

Again, you don't have to study & memorize all the details included in these books on how to contract your home. The information is daunting to say the least. I could go over an entire book and eliminate much of the information on a do-not-need-to-know basis.

I'll provide another example from the table of contents Chapter 18 - Excavation & Foundation from the same book mentioned above. This chapter has the following subtitles followed by my own questions:
1. Excavating the foundation   -   Are you the excavator?
2. Laying out the foundation   -   Are you the concrete subcontractor?
3. Mixing concrete   -   Do you own a ready-mix company with trucks & materials & dozens of employees?
4. Pouring concrete   -   See # 2
5. Building block walls   -   Why would you want to do something like that?
6. Installing piers   -   See #'s 2 & 4
7. Making the connection   -   Am I the idiot?????
I had to go read this one for myself. They are referring to the sill plates & hardwood shims that are required when they come into contact with the concrete foundation walls & piers. Question - Are you going to be the framer on this house?
8. Installing good drainage   -   Worth reading the advice
9. Excavating for septic systems   -   Are you going to personally install the septic system?
10. Excavation & Foundation Resources   -   Can you find a good concrete subcontractor? If so, he probably has a pretty good idea where to get your concrete based on the location of your job site.

Unless you already knew all the information contained in chapter 18 - I sincerely hope you answered no to all my questions.

2. Financing

Most people will need to get a loan to build a house. Being your own contractor might make this process a little more difficult but it can be done. The lenders will want to be confident that you can get the job done successfully. So be prepared and you will face less resistance.

By studying the material on this site and checking out any relevant links you should be able to finalize the deal.

When meeting with your banker you will want to come totally prepared. Have your references, a financial statement and your income and job in formation. Any past experience that will show that you are organized and posess management skills will help. If you have your lot paid for you are probably ¾ of the way home. If not, you still have a good chance of getting the loan if you can convince the lender that you can save 20% or more off the cost of hiring the job done. The equity you save would be your down payment.

You stand a better chance if you have a list of all your qualified subcontractors and suppliers who have agreed to work with you on the project. Have your estimate sheet clearly written out with copies of your signed agreements with sub contractors and suppliers.

Show your lender you are aware of all the permits, zoning requirements, easements, restrictions etc. that relate to your project. Bring a set of plans along for the bank to review.

The loan that you get will actually be two separate loans - one for the construction phase, and the second loan on permanent mortgage.

The construction loan will be issued to you in draws or disbersments over the course of the project. Not all banks operate exactly the same but here is a common example: Lets say you secure a loan from a bank for the $85,000 construction phase. The bank will disperse the funds to you via a title company. For a fee of $250-$300 the title company will allow you 10 draws to complete the job. The will give you draw sheets, lien waivers, tax forms for your subcontractors to fill out. You will collect the invoices for labor and then turn each one in to the title co. They will mail out all the payments or hold them for pickup by various parties.

If you are limited on the number of draws, I would insist on at least 10. Its hard to get the job done with less than this amount without making some people wait too long to get paid.

You will only pay interest on the portion of the loan that has actually been disbursed through the title co. The title co. will go out periodically to inspect the job to make sure the actual work that is being paid for is completed.

By studying the material on this site and checking out any relevant links you should be able to finalize the deal.

Show your lender you are aware of all the permits, zoning requirements, easements, restrictions etc. that relate to your project. Bring a set of plans along for the bank to review.

The loan that you get will actually be two separate loans - one for the construction phase, and the second loan on permanent mortgage.

If you are limited on the number of draws, I would insist on at least 10. Its hard to get the job done with less than this amount without making some people wait too long to get paid.

When I turn in my estimate sheet for the construction loan, I write in a blank category for int. expense. This will include closing cost associated with the loan - title disbursement fees and estimated interest paid on the loan during construction. This way you have no out of pocket expenses to come up with and by all rights, these are expenses to building a house just as materials or labor would be.

Obviously you will be paying more monthly interest at the end of the construction process and less at the beginning. I use an average of 35 - 40, so 40% of $85,000 would be $34,000 borrowed for say 6 months to be safe. Multiply $34,000 by the rate on your loan and divide by 2 (6 months). This will give you an estimate of your interest cost.

I have found that it is necessary to have some cash to operate with in building a house. Some things will need to be paid for before you get a disbursement. Permits, utilities etc. Also you may not have accounts set up everywhere and you may need to pay when you purchase. You will turn them in with each draw as reimbursements. Credit cards can be useful here as you can pay them off within the 30 days. Three thousand dollars should be sufficient for a $85,000 project.

3. Search for Land and Building Sites

Remember your first house on the path to 6X=$1.5 Million is also the first step to bigger and better things. You will get to move up to a bigger house with a better location with each house you build without increasing the size of your mortgage and without any extra cost. Each time you move and build you are adding your profit as a builder along with the realized gain from appreciation into each successive home.

Unless you already have a building site in a desirable location I suggest working with a real estate agent. Tell them what you desire personally as to location, schools, neighborhoods etc. and also reveal your intention to resell in the future. You may prefer a secluded location far from the maddening crowd but you may also lessen your ability to find a future buyer. A good real estate agent can help you reconcile your desires with what other people may also desire.

If you have a particular home style in mind you will want to make sure the lot will accommodate the plan without major expense. For example if you want a walk out basement home, you’ll need to find a lot that slopes the way you want and that would have the desirable orientation as to North, South facing, view etc.

A flat lot for a crawl space plan is best. If you will be on a ceptic system have a soil analysis done to determine which type of system you will need as they can vary in price by many thousands of dollars.

I like wooded lots for their resale value but they cost more and are more expensive to build on. The added cost is probably worth it but I would suggest going with your personal preference. Some people don’t like dealing with leaves.

Soil testing for load-bearing capacity may be recommended in some areas and could pay off if you want a basement and find the need for blasting. This is very expensive.

If you are working with a realtor you should discuss these factors with him/her along with any other concerns you may have about the lot. Such things as zoning, obtaining a permit, the pluses and minuses of the area in question. The price of the land itself is not the only consideration in determining the true cost of the lot. Does it require a well, if not what are the water connection fees? Also find out about sewer availability. You can make an offer on a lot before you’ve answered all of these questions, but make sure your agent gets everything in a contract and have it contingent on certain conditions being met. The down payment should be refundable and held in escrow. Find out all restrictions from neighborhood associations as to home sizes, outbuildings and road maintenance.

4. Plans

Visit homes where custom homes are being built by several small and medium builders. Then deduct 20% for your builder equity and this is what you’ll need in financing. Deduct the property cost and this is what you’ll need to build your house. Next divide this total by the square footage of the house. Do this on 2 or 3 homes in your area and you’ll have a square foot price that you can use to multiply time the footage in the plan you are considering.

You may have to ask around to real estate agents or the builders to find out how much the land costs on the houses you are looking at. You can visit open houses which usually have fliers with square footage listed. If not call the realtors or again the builders.

You should know how much money you have available to invest in your home. Now its time to find a house plan that matches your price range. If you have been visiting open houses and looking at homes in your price range you should have a good idea where to start looking for plans. There are plan books available at Lowe’s and Home Depot, other bookstores and online. You can narrow your search by focusing on homes in various categories - less than 2,000 sq. ft. - or 2-3,000 sq ft. etc.

Remember the simpler the design the less it will cost per square ft. Steep, cut up roofs (lots of hips and valleys) add to both labor and material costs. Bay windows, lots of offsets as apposed to a straight rectangular design, raised ceilings, all brick or stone, granite countertops, hard wood floors, fireplaces, custom cabinetry etc all increase the cost per square foot.

If you have completed step 3 and have a building site in mind then you should pick a plan that matches the site. It would be a good idea to meet with your excavator and discuss any plan you are seriously considering to get his opinion on how it will work on your particular site. I would also recommend meeting your foundation/concrete man at the site to get his opinion as well before ordering a set of plans as they cost several hundred dollars and you want to know in advance if they present any problems in connection with your site.

5. Estimates - (See worksheet at bottom of article)

Step #5 on estimating costs is one area that will take some time and effort and you want to make sure you really do your
homework. You will need to go down every element on the estimate sheet and get competitive prices and bids on each item. Refer back to the cutting costs page for reminders in this area. Some of these items will lend themselves to a firm price that you can count on as in items 1. (Plan / Permits), 2. ( Lot Cost), , 10. (Framing Labor), 16. (Plumbing Bid), 22. (Cabinets) other items on the list will be estimates such as 3. (Dozer Work) and 4. (Concrete Materials). Some items on the list will require you to figure an estimate of what you can spend in that area and put an allowance in for a certain amount. Light fixtures, carpet and flooring, mirrors, hardware, and things of this nature. Then stick with that amount. You may end up saving in one area to offset a decision to spend more somewhere else. As you progress in the construction of the home you should record every transaction under the proper category in your estimate sheet. This allows you to track your progress as you go. If you see you are going over the estimate you can start cutting back on some items that come near the end (carpet, appliances, hardware, tile & wood flooring) some things like landscaping can be put off until later.

As I mentioned earlier, some of these original estimates will be off due to several factors. Lumber prices are volatile and can change quickly. Framers are not equal. Some waste more than others or may build to higher standard than others. This could throw material cost off by $300 or so. You may have 200 or more bricks left over on a house.

Not all brick companies have the same policy on returns. Usually they will not take back if the strap has been broken. There are roughly 100 bricks in a strap. I would have the brick co. and the masonry subcontractor figure how much you need. Then don’t over-order you can always run and get a couple hundred bricks, just be sure they will have the same brick available if you need it. Have them estimate how much sand and morter you need to have delivered to complete the job. They are usually good about covering morter mix with plastic but I wouldn’t leave it to chance. You don’t want it to get wet.

As I discussed in the article on cutting costs, you can let the lumberyard do a take-off from your plans on the entire house and get a price on anything they provide. This should be free since they want your business. You don’t have to buy everything there and I strongly recommend you shop around for certain items.

1. Plans & Permits. Contact your local planning and zoning department for estimates.
2. Lot. Fill in the amount you paid for the lot including title fees, surveys etc.
3. Dozer Work. This will be only a rough estimate.
4. Chat. Estimate for crawlspace, driveway, fill under garage floor and basement.
5. Concrete Materials. Explain to your foundation man that you are new in the business and ask for help in estimating concrete materials as well as gravel needs.
6. Foundation Labor. This is usually priced by the foot but the estimate will probably be "just that", an estimate because actual conditions may not be the same as bidding off a plan.
7. Flat Work. Flat work is figured 4" thick so divide the actual sq. ft. by 80 to get the yards required. Somehow I always seem to get a little short by doing this so I find dividing by 70 actually works better.
8. Waterproofing. Get an estimate from someone who specializes in foundation coating.
9. Lumber Materials. As I discussed in the article on cutting costs, you can let the lumber yard do a take-off from your plans on the entire house. They will price any product that they carry . This service will be free since they are looking for your business. You don't have to buy everything here and I recommend you shop around on certain items.

10. Framing Labor. This is usually priced by sq ft normally stated on the plans. Measure outside to outside and don’t count overhangs. Usually everything that’s under the roof - porches etc. count. This price should include settings, windows and doors. Have caulk handy to caulk under door thresholds.

11. Trim Labor. This should include door casings, baseboards, closet shelving, interior doors and setting cabinets.

12. Roofing. This is usually priced by the square. 10 x 10 ft area = 100 sq ft = 1 square. Your supplier can figure this amount. Your labor price will depend on the degree of difficulty as in slope of the roof, hips & valleys etc. Use a 25 yr shingle or better.

13. Windows/Doors. Windows and doors see #9 Lumber Materials.

14. Garage Doors. There are companies that specialize in garage doors they have insulated or non-insulated, steel backed or vinyl backed, openers, key pads etc. Get competitive bids from each of these companies.

15. Tubs/Showers. If these are not included in the plumbing bid then add these amounts to your estimate sheet on line 15.

16. Plumbing. Should include all materials and labor. Toilets, sinks, tubs, shower and water heater. Not appliances. Ask whether bid includes garbage disposal. Some plumbers will not warranty their work if you supply the faucets, however they usually have a variety you can choose from.

17. HVAC. Once you find a subcontractor make sure to ask if they install bathroom vent on fans. Sometimes there is confusion with other subcontractors on this matter. Also they should vent the clothes dryer.

18. Electrical. This should include all materials and labor, switch covers, breakers, breaker box, setting microwave, dishwasher hook up, wiring range, cable and phone jacks, doorbell and light fixtures.

19. Wall Insulation. Don't skimp on Insulation, check codes on minimum amount required.

20. & 21. Drywall Material & Labor. Local drywall supplier will send a salesman to measure your house. Refer to tips in article on cutting costs. I like to keep my labor bids seperate from the material bid and I do not let the drywallers provide the drywall material. They provide the tape, mud and texture. You would be amazed at how much a drywaller can waste, since they are being paid by the foot. At least they know that you are aware of the amount necessary to build the house if it has been measured by the supplier. Don't worry about small discrepencies, but you should generally have a few sheets left over. Both bids - material & labor - are priced by the square foot.

22. Cabinets & Vanities. Include the laundry, bath vanities as well as kitchen. Hardware, toe kicks, crown molding etc. Labor to install is seperate.

23. Painting / Staining. See I recommend doing this yourself. See related article on painting in the cost cutting article. However, it is good to get a bid and include it in the estimate.

24. & 25. Fireplaces: Labor & Materials. Get a bid for both material and labor.

26.-30. Floor Coverings. The supplier will come measure the house once the framing is complete. However, you can obtain an estimate based on your floor plans in advance for all types of flooring, carpet, hardwoods, tile etc.

31. Light Fixtures. You can take a count from your floor plans and compare prices at local suppliers to come up with an allowance.

32. Wall Paper. Use local merchants for recomendations and bids. Remember, paper is more permanent than paint so if your tastes don't match those of prospective buyers, it is harder to change than painted walls. Also make sure the drywallers are aware of any areas where wall paper will be used so they will leave the walls smooth.

33. Appliances. Again you will have to leave an allowance for this. Take advantage of sales and promotions such as 6 mo.s - 1 yr same as cash.

34. Hardware. Count doorknobs, toilet paper holders, knobs and pulls on cabinets, towel racks, etc. Be sure to include these because they can add up quickly.

35. Mirrors & Shower Doors. The plumber will not provide these. Get competitive bids on material and labor to install.

36. Ceiling Insulation. See #19.

37. Cleaning. You can do this yourself to save money or hire a cleaning lady.

38. Guttering. There are many seamless guttering subcontractors available so compare bids.

39. - 41. Yard Work. This may be something you want to do yourself if you enjoy this type of work. Ask your subcontractors and suppliers for names if you plan to hire this work done.

42. Water / Well. Water hook up fees are determined by your local utilities company. Call reputable well driller for a deep well.

43. Gas Connect. Contact Utility Company.

44. Sewer Connect / Septic. Your plumber may provide this service. If not, get a bid and compare with someone who specializes in septic systems.

45. Construction Utilities. For an estimate use $300 to build the house.

6. Permits & Handouts

If you are going to be your own contractor - depending on your city - county regulations - you may need to get a contractors licsence. This is not a problem, my cost was only $32.00 in 2007. You will then need to obtain all year permits. Building, sewer, electrical, mechanical, driveway etc. (whatever else is required in your area). Be prepared to do some shuffling around. A cheerful, positive and curteous attitude works wonders with most bureaucrats - even if they don’t always return the favor. Keep in mind that these men and women occasionally deal with irate and impatient individuals and they can be defensive. If they see that you are relaxed, they will normally follow your lead and let down their guard.

Make sure to obtain copies of all relevant handouts and ask if there are any recent changes in codes that you should be made aware of. You can discuss any of these changes with the relevant subcontractors just to make sure they are also current. These materials should include a list of inspections and when to call for them. You may need to post your permit # on your building site and you will need to obtain an address. If the site doesn’t already have an address they will either assign one at the permit dept. or shuffle you to the correct location for this..

I would call planning and zoning before you go or stop by some day when you are near there to get an application. This tells you what you need to bring. Some items they might require: site plan that you have to draw - showing set backs, well placement, septic field, and house location, contractor’s liscense , names and numbers of all subcontractors floor plan and your checkbook.
7. Insurance

The bank will require you to carry a builder's risk policy. This can be rolled over into your permanent home owner's policy when the home is completed. Also make sure your sub-contractors carry workman's compensation insurance.

8. Excavating

You should obtain a survey on any property you buy. It helps to have property pins that you can go by when laying out your house on the property. The inspector can also use these to determine if you have met all the set back requirements when he does his pre-site inspection (some require this inspection, some do not). You can find out what your set backs are when you obtain your building permit. Keep in mind if you have a well and a septic that there are rules on the distance between the well placement and the lateral field.

If this is your first house you might want to hire the surveyor who surveyed your lot to lay out the plan for you. If this seems too expensive you might talk to your excavator about it as you should have already met with him to get his opinion on the lay of the land and how well it works with your plan. The two of you could lay out most simple lots in less than an hour and you could offer to compensate him for his time. I’ve worked with my excavator several times in this manor. Again, go with the experienced, well-respected subcontractors. You will learn so much from them to help you on future houses and they are worth a little more because of this.

Some factors to consider when positioning a house:

1. For energy efficiency - a home with a large area with lots of glass facing south and a few windows and doors on the north.

2. Set backs.

3. Privacy concerns.

4. Streets - views etc.

5. Well, septic & utilities.

6. Future outbuildings.

7. Trees - save or remove.

Most of the dirt that comes from digging out your site can be used for back fill later. If you have a wooded lot you will have some expense in getting rid of them. Crews are available for this and they charge by the load. They can show up while the excavator is clearing the lot and he will load them on the spot. If you want to reduce the loads and cut the firewood later you will need to be there at this time and cut the larger piece into manageable lengths and have them piled out of the way. If you have a large lot you ban bury the stumps back in the woods - or as I’ve done on my place - create a stump and brush pile away from the house that wildlife can move into. I have a fox den in one and a groundhog den in another.

9. - 11. Footing - Pouring Concrete

I use a father and son team for my excavation, footing and foundation needs. The son clears the lots and the father with his crew does the pouring. Once the lot is clear the foundation crew will restake the house, set all the forms and do all of the pouring. Footings take less than a day. Make sure they are aware of the local codes and frust line requirements. You don’t want the house to move when the ground freezes and thaws.

These measurements need to be correct and square. If not your house will not fit according to the plans. Get good references from builders and concrete co.s before hiring someone.

Your framer could be a good source because he will dislike following a bad foundation man and will be more than happy to recommend you a good one.

Finding someone who does all aspects of this job will reduce complaints and disagreements that can result from two different opinions about how something should or should not have been done.

The finished foundation wall needs to be about 8” above the final grade of the yard and high enough to allow the dirt to be tapered away from the house so water will run away from the foundation.

You will want enough room under the house so that work can be done below. Make sure to vent properly - cover the crawlspace area with whatever is code.

Your experienced sub-contractor will have all the latest laser equipment to determine your wall heights etc.

I hire a water-proofing company to coat the foundation up to the finished grade and I run drain title around the footings where appropriate.

You may want to pretreat for termites after the foundation is poured.
Allow a week for the foundation work. They have to set up the forms, come back and pour, let it set and then return to remove the forms. Rain can cause delays.

12. Framing

You are now ready for framing unless you are building with a basement or on a concrete slab. In this case you need to get your underground plumbing installed before you pour the floor. Now comes the amazing part. Meet with the framer and answer any questions - then stay out of the way and prepare to watch your house unfold before your eyes. Order the windows and doors as the frame will need them in about 2 weeks. Give a heads up to your roofer on approximate date so he can plan to work you into his schedule. Also some advance notice to your plumbing, electrical, and HVAC contractors is advisable at this time. It helps them plan ahead as well.
Rain and snow can cause delays but the new flooring is design to withstand these elements without damage. Don’t skimp on the sub floor. I use ¾ tongue and groove Advantech. Make sure this is nailed and glued to prevent squeeks.

13. Roofing

Sometimes the plumber wants to run the vent pipes out before the shingles are laid, others cut them in later. If the pipes are already coming through before the roofer starts, make sure the boots are available in the correct size so the roofers will not be held up when they arrive. A three man crew can finish a small house in a day. Ask the roofer if his price includes clean up as they can leave quite a mess. Roofers have a tendency to throw the nailing boards off the roof with nails sticking up. Its always good to keep the job clean so no one steps on a nail.

14. Siding and Soffit

There are many options when choosing exterior siding, brick or stone or a combination of the three. These jobs can be undertaken while the rough ins and drywall are being completed inside. Make sure all of the J boxes for hanging exterior light fixtures, outside receptacles, hose bibs, dryer vent, foundation vents are in place before installing siding. Also if there is to be an exterior deck to be built later - the ledger board should be installed and connected to the house with lag bolts or according to the code. Make sure flashing is run and leave room for the deck floor when the J Channel is placed around the ledger. Find out what the code is on the number of foundation vents required. Be careful not to place them right next to any water lines in the crawl space for freezing purposes.

15. - 18. Rough inns

Plumbing, heating and air, and electrical rough-ins can be done in any order but I prefer to get the plumber in first. Then HVAC. Two can work at the same time if they agree but 3 is a crowd. I usually go with whatever schedule works for these three sub-contractors. If the weather is cold you may need heat for the drywall so the furnace should be set at this time. You’ll need the electrician and the HVAC man to coordinate in that regard. I like to have the electrician install a couple of receptacles in the house and get them hot so the subcontractors that follow don’t have to work off the temporary pole. The drywallers will need water so if you can get it hooked up then do./ If you just cant get this done at this time Ive seen them bring water in 50 gal. barrels or you can have several 5 gal buckets brought in for them.

You will need to get your rough-in inspectors before you insulate or hang any rock. You should hang rock in the furnace room before the furnace is set. Use green rock around tubs and showers. The tub and shower units are installed before the rock so don’t forget to insulate behind them. I also insulate around windows and behind channels (where inside walls meet outside walls). This is best done before the exterior sheathing is installed but not before the shingles have been put on.

19. Insulation - Walls - One day

There are some options available as to the type of material to use for insulation. They will be covered later in a related article.

20. Drywall

You should allow close to two weeks for drywall. However, if the weather is good (drying time) and the house is small it can be done in a week. I mentioned that I like to have a representative from the drywall supply co. measure the house. This is advantageous in reducing waste plus they can distribute the material throughout the house with the proper amount in each room.
This saves the drywallers a lot of time and effort. I like to pay an extra 1 or 2 cents/ft. and have the drywallers cover the floor with brown paper before they do any mudding or texturing. It makes clean up so much easier. Drywall dust can be very hard on sinuses so I suggest dust masks when dealing with it.
You'll need a rented dumpster on site to dispose of the scrap. The price you pay usually covers the rough clean up of material but not the disposal.

21. Painting

I have covered this area in detail in a related article on building sweat equity.

22. Trim Carpentry

You should have all your flooring (wood, tile, etc) except for the carpet down before you run the trim. Cabinets should be set first. I don’t run laminet wood flooring under the cabinets because it has to float and if it can’t move it will warp or pull apart. Interior doors, window trim and closet shelves can all be run at this time.

23. Cabinets and Countertops

Hopefully you’ve ordered your cabinets several weeks ago and they are ready when you are. Be up front with your installer and tell him you expect a professional job here because this work needs to be precise. You should go over the cabinet layout with your framer so he can cull out any bowed studs that might make the countertops fit poorly. Also the more square the kit walls are with one another, the better the cabinets will fit. Especially so for manufactured cabinets.

24. Mirrors, Shower Doors etc

I usually buy my mirrors and shower doors at the same place so they can install both when delivered.

25. Tile - Wood Floors

This should be completed before the trim.

26. Appliances

Its time to have the appliances delivered and if delivery is not free you may want to pick them up yourself. Don’t forget the range cord. If you are buying a new refridgerator, I would let them deliver the appliances. I don’t get these on the job before its time for fixture settings by the plumber and electrician due to the risk of theft.

27. Plumbing Fix

Water heaters, dishwashers, refrg, water line, garbage disposal all need to be completed so the electrician can wire everything up.

27. Plumbing Fix

Water heaters, dishwashers, refrg, water line, garbage disposal all need to be completed so the electrician can wire everything up.

27. Plumbing Fix

Water heaters, dishwashers, refrg, water line, garbage disposal all need to be completed so the electrician can wire everything up.

27. Plumbing Fix

Water heaters, dishwashers, refrg, water line, garbage disposal all need to be completed so the electrician can wire everything up.

28. HVAC Furnace Set

Finish yard to grade so they can set the A/C unit.

29. Electrical Fix Set

Lights, appliances, switch covers, furnace, hot water can all be completed at this time.

30. Carpet

Try to have everything finished inside before installing the carpet. Try not to use something that went out of style long ago. You want something that your buyers will like too.

31. Concrete Pad - Drive

Now that the heavy traffic is over with you can finish your exterior concrete and paving.

32. Yard Work

33. Guttering

It’s a good idea to get this done before you finish your yard. If its wet and they come out after you’ve just spread top soil and seed they may track it up pretty bad.

Building "Sweat Equity" & "Time is Money"

Always remember - your savings (pay) that you earn are 100% equal to the amount you have to pay someone else to do the same job. You don't want to invest in a lot of tools that you'll use only once every five years, or learn a skill that will take many hours and several attempts to become proficient. Speed is critical in the subcontracting business. In order to make a profit they have to get a lot of work done in a short period of time. They don't bid the job by the hour. The longer it takes them to complete the job, the less they get paid.

I can make a good wage from framing my own houses because I used to frame for a living. However, unless you are good at something its probably not going to pay very well.

Lets take hanging drywall for instance (taping, mud & texture are another matter). The hanging portion of that job is fairly straight forward & easy to learn. But, unless you think you are a match for King Kong I wouldn't attempt it. A good drywalling crew will literally run cirlces around you. I've witnessed a crew of 3 hang 7,000 ft of drywall in one day. That includes screwing each sheet into place (200+ sheets - 40 screws / sheet) do the math! Thats 8,000 screws! Hanging, taping & texturing generally run around 44 cents per ft in my area - while hanging comprises maybe 18 cents... 7,000 ft x .18 = $1,260. Three inexperienced King Kong wannabees could possibly hang the same amount of rock in 32 hours! Plus, hangers have lots of sharp blades, routers, wide folding benches, scaffolding to stand on, screwguns with magnetic bits, etc. Assuming you could even find two of those King Kong wannabees (they've been driven to the point of extinction at the thought of hard work while the few remaining survivors have evolved into don't wannabees) & you pay them $10/hr each (ridiculous) thats 20 x 32 hours = $640. $1260 - 640 = 620 /32 = $19.30 per hour. NO THANKS. Especially when you realize you gained 3 hernias from holding up the heavy sheets of drywall and lost 3 days by holding up the job!

You should apply this same standard, taking actual earnings and time into account before attempting to build sweat equity into these homes. One thing I consider as a normal contracting duty iskeeping the jobsite clean. Another job for the contractor is picking up, delivering and returning supplies. Renting a dumpster is a good idea. This makes the job go faster, saves on wasting materials, & helps to prevent any injuries. Most cities have a recycling guide - use those whenever possible. Also be aware of the restrictions on what you may put in the dumpster - most don't allow shingles - ask when you rent. A pick-up truck is a necessity in my opinion & as I'll explain later, a decent trailer will pay for itself very quickly. They last a long time & maintain their value well also. I bought an 18' trailer with double axle for $650 in good condition & it nearly paid for itself off after only one house!

You can be your own contractor and do small jobs that you might normally hire done like wash windows & do the final clean up on the house, garage floor, bathrooms, etc.